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Grand-Grandfather's
Useful Antique Recipes
- all sorts of paints and
colors 2
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recipes from the 'Household
Cylopedia', 1881
- PAINTS AND COLORS -
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2. TO
MAKE WHITE PAINT.
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• To paint in White distemper.
Grind fine
in water Bougival white, a kind of marl or chalky clay, and mix it
with size. It may be brightened by a small quantity of indigo, or
charcoal-black.
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• To
make White paint.
The White
destined for varnish or oil requires a metallic oxide, which gives
more body to the color. Take ceruse, reduced to powder, and grind it
with oil of pinks and 1/4 oz. of sulphate of zinc for each pound of
oil. Apply the second coating without the sulphate of zinc, and
suffer it to dry. Cover the whole with a stratum of sandarac
varnish. This color is curable, brilliant and agreeable to the eye.
Boiled linseed oil might be employed instead of oil of pinks, but
the color of it would in some degree injure the purity of the white.
Another
method.
White is prepared also with pure white oxide of lead, ground
with a little essence, added to oil of pinks and mixed with gallipot
varnish. The color may be mixed also with essence diluted with oil,
and without varnish, which is reserved for the two last coatings. If
for a lively white, the color is heightened with a little Prussian
blue or indigo, or with a little prepared black. The latter gives it
a gray cast. But pure white lead, the price of which is much higher
than ceruse, is reserved for valuable articles. In this particular
case, if a very fine durable white be required, grind it with a
little essence, and mix it with sandarac or varnish.
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3. TO
MAKE GRAY PAINT.
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• To paint in Light Gray and
distemper.
Ceruse,
mixed with a small quantity of lamp-black, composes a gray, more or
less charged, according to the quantity of black. With this matter,
therefore, mixed with black in different doses, a great variety of
shades may be formed, from the lightest to the darkest gray.
If this color
be destined for distemper, it is mixed with water; if intended for
oil painting, it is ground with nut-oil, or oil of pinks, and with
essence added to oil, if designed for varnish. This color is durable
and very pure, if mixed with camphorated mastic varnish; the
gallipot varnish renders it so solid that it can bear to be struck
with a hammer, if, after the first stratum it has been applied with
varnish, and without size. For the last coating sandarac varnish,
and camphorated varnish are proper; and for the darkest gray,
spirituous sandarac varnish.
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• To
make Flaxen Gray.
Ceruse, or white lead, still predominates in this color, which is
treated as the other grays, but with this difference, that it admits
a mixture of lake instead of black. Take the quantity, therefore, of
cernse necessary, and grind it separately. Then mix it up, and add
the lake and Prussian blue, also ground separately. The quantities
of the last two colors ought to be proportioned to the tone of color
required.
This color is
proper for distemper, varnish, and oil painting. For varnish, grind
it with mastic gallipot varnish, to which a little oil of pinks has
been added, and then mix it up with common gallipot varnish. For oil
painting, grind with unprepared oil of pinks, and mix up with
resinous drying nut-oil. The painting is brilliant and solid.
When the artist piques himself upon carefully preparing those colors
which have splendor, it will be proper, before he commences his
labor, to stop up the holes formed by the heads of the nails in
wainscoting with putty. Every kind of sizing which, according to
usual custom, precedes the application of varnish, ought to be
prescribed as highly prejudicial, when the wainscoting consists of
firwood. Sizing maybe admitted for plaster, but without any mixture.
A plain stratum of strong glue and water spread over it, is
sufficient to fill up the pores to prevent any unnecessary
consumption of the varnish.
The first
stratum of color is ceruse without any mixture, ground with essence
added to a little oil of pinks, and mixed up with essence. If any of
the traces are uneven, rub it lightly, when dry, with pumice-stone.
This operation contributes greatly to the beauty and elegance of the
polish when the varnish is applied.
The second
stratum is composed of ceruse changed to flaxen gray by the mixture
of a little Cologne earth, as much English red or lake, and a
particle of Prussian blue. First, so make the mixture with a small
quantity of ceruse, that the result shall be a smoky gray, by the
addition of the Cologne earth. The red, which is added, makes it
incline to fleshcolor, and the Prussian blue destroys the latter to
form a dark flaxen gray. The addition of ceruse brightens the tone.
This stratum and the next are ground, and mixed up with varnish as
before.
This mixture of
colors, which produces flaxen gray, has the advantage over pearl
gray, as it defends the ceruse from the impression of the air and
light, which makes it assume a yellowish tint. Flaxen gray, composed
in this manner, is unalterable. Besides, the essence which forms the
vehicle of the first stratum contributes to bring forth a color, the
tone of which decreases a little by the effect of drying. This
observation ought to serve as a guide to the artist, in regard to
the tint, which is always stronger in a liquid mixture than when the
matter composing it is extended in a thin stratum, or when it is
dry.
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Parts of This text was taken from: http://members.xoom.com/mspong/paints.html
if you want to read more about antique recipes please visite their
web-site.
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