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wildbrush's art.to.day - the 'lith printing - solarization - toning' process

E
XPERIMENT 1


   

 

   
   



image: photo 'lith-experiment'


   
   


lith printing and copper/red toning-solarization 1999
© 1999 by 'wildbrush' dieter obrecht

   
 



Description of the process:


1. exposure:

  • paper: TETENAL WORK PE/RC -grade 3-

  • time: 25 sec. f/4 + ILFORD Multigrade Filter no.5


2. printing and solarization:

  • First rule: take care about any finger prints in any stage of the process - because you will see them in the final stage of the print (to exhibit).

  • Development in standard print developer ILFORD MULTIGRADE PAPER DEVELOPER 1+9 for 55 sec.

  • Switch on the room lights for app. 1.5 sec. to get the solarization effect - and snatch the print exactly at the end of the total development time (60 sec.)

  • Immerse the exposed paper in the beginning of the development process in a fast movement at once - because if you immerse it with steps you will get different developed areas in the solarization process. After the paper is fully immersed don't move the development dish until the end of 55 sec. period.
    Check also for bubbles on the surface of the developer solution. If there are some you will see them later on your print after fully development time. (Of cause this can be a desired effect!)

  • Stop bath ILFORD ILFOSTOP 1+19 for 30 sec.

  • No fixing of the print at this stage.

  • Thoroughly washing for about 5 min. under running water.

3. printing 2nd stage:

  • Bleaching in FOTOSPEED Bleach (from Variable Sepia Toner Kit) 1+10 for app 20 min.

  • Thoroughly washing for about 5 min. under running water.

  • Re-development in hot lithprinting solution 'KODAK KODALITH' (working solution further diluted 1+25) app. 80°C for app. 25 min. until the print gets a maroon colour.

  • Stop bath for 30 sec.

  • Fixing in ILFORD Paperfixer until the colour get the desired color shade.

    Don't use too strong fixer. The fixing process generally lightens the reached color from lithprinting.

    Snatch the print at the right moment when it has achieved the colour shade you like.

  • Thoroughly washing for about 5 min. under running water.

4. toning:

  • Bleach again for app. 2-3 min.

  • Thoroughly washing for about 5 min. under running water.

  • Toning in FOTOSPEED Red/Copper Toner - part1=1+4 and part2=1+4 for about 5-10 min. (Dilution depends on the color strength you want to achieve).

  • Put the print in a weak fixer solution 1+25 for app. 2 min. The fixer will dimmish your color - snatch the print at the desired color point. Shorter or longer periods in the fixer can result in different effects.

  • Use another dish with a small amount of ILFORD MULTIGRADE PAPER DEVELOPER 1+9 and put the print from the fixer into the developer. For app. 10-15 sec. (You don't do this under normal circumstances - because you contaminate the developer with the stop bath).

  • Put the print back in the stop bath until you see a colour reaction - usually beginning from the border towards the center of the paper.

  • Put the print back in the Red/Copper toning solution - without washing in between.
  • Now wash your print well for app. 3 min. under running water.

  • Put it back into the diluted fixer solution 1+25 for app. 10-15 sec. Shorter or longer periods in the fixer can result in different effects.

  • Again wash your print well for app. 3 min. under running water.

  • Put the print back in the red/copper toning solution for 4 min.

  • Now make the final wash for app. 3 min. under running water.

  • Allow the print to dry naturally.


Finally I achieved the depicted result on top of this page by accident. Then I repeated the procedure and took record of each step I had done. This is in any stage of experimental printing processes very important because of the repeating of the final result.


Of cause there will be in no way 100% exactly the same result - but nearly.....


give it a try - and good luck!!!

© 1999 by 'wildbrush' dieter obrecht


 


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